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前回のコレクションのテーマ「EMBRACE（包む）」の創作中、しろちゃんと名付けた蚕の飼育を通じて、自らもまた自分の体を取り囲む風景に包まれていることに気づいたデザイナーの黒河内真衣子は、道に落ちたゴミの袋、カラスから農作物を守るネット、お土産の包み紙など、日常のなかにある、多種多様の「包まれる」事象を目で追い続けていた。そういえば、私たちの日常の中には、お蕎麦屋さんを訪ねたときに真っ先に出てくるおしぼりの受けや、冷たい麦茶が入ったコップを覆う籠など、竹を籠に編み込む「包む」の形もあった。前シーズンのインスピレーションとなった岡秀行氏の本「包」 にも、伝統的に日本で作られた、多種多様な籠の姿があった。
包む対象物によってフォルムを変える籠のトランスフォーメーションが、持ち運ぶものにドレスを着せるような行為に思え、編まれた籠に包まれるような感覚を、服で表現したいと感じたことが、今回のコレクションの起点になった。
The Story by Mame Kurogouchiでは2020年秋冬 Embracing コレクションの制作の舞台裏を全7回の物語と写真と共に伝えてゆく。
In the midst of creating last season’s collection -Embrace- Maiko Kurogouchi began to shift focus that she, herself, was embraced by her surrounding environment. Her attention was subtly directed towards objects that were ‘embracing’ a variety of objects, from plastic bags, blue nets used to protect crops from crows, to souvenir wrappings. She soon came to realize that humans are embraced in their daily lives. At a visit to the Soba shop, a hand towel is given on a wooden tray, followed by a cup covered in bamboo basket. The basket itself, woven by bamboo, portraying a different kind of ‘embrace’.
The book inspiring last season’s collection, ‘The Art of Wrapping’ by Hideyuki Oka, also had traditional baskets woven for different usages. There was beauty in the transformation for each basket, changing its form to wrap objects, finding a connection to a dress worn by a human body. Like a woven basket, the comfort and warmth when embracing oneself, was the starting point in designing this season’s collection.
‘The Story by Mame Kurogouchi’ will feature 7 behind the scene stories with photographs on the creation of 2020 AW Collection – Embracing.
The Story by Mame Kurogouchi is written by Yumiko Sakuma and photography by Yuichiro Noda.