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THE STORY 22 FALL WINTER

My own Jomon

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Dreams of a white snake, the tulips that grandmother flowered, fluffy moss blankets the surface of the rocks.

Within the journey of Maiko Kurogouchi’s hometown, from the scenery or the smell of air, to the footprints of the people in the area, the memories from her childhood are brought back.

The Jomon Period, it is said that people focused on spirituality rather than production or function, portraying hopes of prayer or stories onto its pottery. In similar, the three-ply woven fabric embeds the fragments of memories and sense of nostalgia of Maiko’s hometown into primitive patterns.

As its name implies, the three-ply weave is a fabric where three different strings are overlapped and woven. Silk is used as the warp giving an elegant lust, cupra for weft, and in the middle a polyester woolly called ‘anko’ is chosen. Once woven, hot steam is applied on the fabric, the woolly thread shrinks, and a moss like fluff is created.

Twisted threads are pressed against the surface of the earthenware, creating patterns of the Jomon pottery. The pleasant ruggedness yet bold curves are expressed by Maiko’s design through jacquard. As the pattern also is important in connecting the threads, while drawing beautiful curves, it is essential to have a complex plan that calculates the stability of the fabric. Furthermore, in creating the fluff and thickness a thicker thread is used, increasing its complexity. For this collection, a factory renowned for creating silk neckties was chosen, to make this intricate complex technique possible. Thus, an ideal pattern and dimensional fabric with lightness was created.

The finished fabric is then turned into a cocoon silhouetted coat, jacket or skirt. The garments composed of elegant curves, are as if combined with the earthenware of its time.

Photography: Masaru Tatsuki / Words & Edit: Runa Anzai (kontakt) / Translation: Shimon Miyamoto