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今回のコレクションの創作過程の初期、黒河内はヨーロッパからの帰り道に、島国アイスランドに立ち寄った。自分が、地球という惑星に生まれ、生きているのだということを教えてくれる風景に包まれ、体いっぱいに感じているときに、事故が起きて、アイスランドの地面に投げ出された。大事に至らなかったのは、投げ出されたところが、ふかふかと柔らかい土のうえに広がる羽毛布団のような草地だったからだ。細く長い雑草が、露に濡れて光る姿には、生命の強さが宿っていた。この美しい地球の生命力に守られているーー 長く伸びた草に包みこまれたこの体験を、形にしたい、とデザインを始めた。作りたかったのは、輝きのある繊細な編みを身にまとうような服だった。人間が身につけることができる、柔らかいけどハリのある紐状の素材を、刺繍することでつなぎ合わせれば、花や植物のモチーフを表現しながら籠のような服を作れるのではないかと考えた。靴紐の工場に依頼して、光沢もハリもありながら肌に触れても柔らかいリネンの糸を紐状にし、籠を編むように複雑な軌跡を描きながら刺繍を施した。小さいパーツから試作を始め、植物が籠を編むように自分の体を覆う様を想像しながら、トワルに一筆書きの要領で直接絵を描き、それをデザインに起こした。用途によって姿を変えることのできる籠のプリミティブでありながら柔軟な姿にインスピレーションを受けて、アイテムごとに姿を変える、籠でできた服をデザインした。
It was towards the start of the season’s creative process, when Kurogouchi found herself traveling through Iceland. As she traveled along throughout Iceland, before her eyes she encountered the vast landscape, absorbing and embracing nature.
It reminded her she was born on this beautiful planet Earth - that she was alive. It was then that an accident occurred, and she was thrown out into the wild. Fortunately, the field of grass, soft like a duvet took her in, protecting her. The long grass was covered in dew shimmering, the strength of life dwelling within. She realized mother nature was protecting her, and it was then she decided to design the collection based on this experience. What Kurogouchi wanted to create, was an intricate woven piece that would embrace the body. She imagined, by weaving soft but firm strings together, she could create pieces similar to a basket with flower or plant motifs that people could wear.
She came to a shoelace factory, asking them to create soft but firm original linen thread with gloss, that was then flattened by a sewing machine. She would then embroider this together, starting off with small samples. She wove strings together imagining how it would embrace the body, just as plants would be woven into baskets. To create the transformative design, she drew directly onto the toile. And finally, she created her own basket garments that changes its look depending on the item worn underneath, just like the inspiring primitive but flexible traditional baskets.
